![]() Turn up Masking while holding the Option/Alt key to see what areas will be sharpened (they appear in white). Generally, settings of Sharpness: Amount 25, Radius 1 work well. The Detail panel allows you to set the noise reduction and sharpness as you like it, one of the benefits of shooting Raw. Step 3 – Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom – Detail Or under the pull-down menu in the Presets tab go to Camera Raw Defaults to set all back to zero. Use Command/Control Z to Undo, or double click on a slider to snap it back to zero. Clarity and Vibrance improves midrange contrast and colour intensity. You can adjust Contrast, and recover details in the Highlights and Shadows (turn the latter up to show details in starlit landscapes). For the latter, use the White Balance Tool (the eyedropper, keyboard shortcut I) to click on an area that should be neutral in colour. The Basics panel (the first tab) allows you to fix Exposure and White Balance. Lightroom defaults to 16-bit and the AdobeRGB colour space. In Adobe Camera Raw be sure to first set the Workflow Preset (the blue link at the bottom of the screen) to 16 bits/channel and ProPhoto RGB colour space, for maximum tonal range. In Lightroom select the images and switch to its Develop module. From Bridge, double click on raw images and they will open in ACR. Step 2 – Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom – Basics Never, ever save images to only one location. Mark images with star ratings or colour labels, and group images together (called “stacking” in Bridge), such as frames for a panorama or “high dynamic range” set.Īlways save images to both your working drive and to an external drive (which itself should automatically back up to yet another external drive). Once imported, you can review images, keeping the best and tossing the rest. As you import, you can also choose to convert and save images into the open and more universal Adobe DNG format, rather than keep them in the camera’s proprietary Raw format. Use Adobe Bridge (shown above) or Lightroom to import the images from your camera’s card.Īs you do so you can add “metadata” to each image – your personal information, copyright, keywords, etc. Step 1 – Bridge or Lightroom – Import & Select Otherwise, you need to export frames from Lightroom – or from Photoshop – as “intermediate” JPGs (see Step 6), then use other third party programs to assemble them into movies (Step 10B). To use Lightroom to assemble a time-lapse movie from processed Raw frames you need the third-party program LRTimelapse, described below. Turn to Photoshop to perform advanced filtering, masking and stacking (Steps 7 to 10). However, my illustrations show Adobe Bridge, Camera Raw and Photoshop CC 2014. The Develop module of Lightroom is identical to Adobe Camera Raw (ACR for short). In my preferred “workflow,” Steps 1 through 6 can be performed in either Photoshop (using its ancillary programs Bridge and Adobe Camera Raw) or in Adobe Lightroom. NOTE: Click on any of the screen shots below for a full-res version that will be easier to see. In a “10 Steps” tutorial I review my tips for going from “raw to rave” in processing a nightscape or time-lapse sequence.
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